Dog Nutrition Explained: What to Feed, What to Avoid, and How to Read a Label

Key takeaways

• Choose a food that is labeled “complete and balanced” for your dog’s life stage, and ask the company the questions WSAVA recommends. The best food is one your dog does well on, at a healthy weight, not the one with the most appealing ingredient list ¹.
• Marketing words like “natural”, “premium” or “human-grade” tell you little about nutritional quality. The nutritional adequacy statement and the company’s answers matter more ^1,3.
• The grain-free and heart disease question is unresolved. The FDA reported a correlation but has not shown that these diets cause heart disease ⁴. Talk to your vet before changing or keeping a diet because of it.
• Raw feeding carries real risks for dogs and for the people who handle the food ⁵.
• Some common human foods are dangerous to dogs, including xylitol, grapes and raisins, chocolate, onions and macadamia nuts.
• Weight matters as much as what you feed. Ask your vet to check body condition at each visit ⁶.

What dogs need from food

Dogs need water, protein, fat, carbohydrate, vitamins and minerals in the right amounts. What matters is the balance across the whole diet, not any single ingredient. Dogs can thrive on a range of recipes, which is why the label and the manufacturer’s testing matter more than a list of ingredients.

Needs also change with life stage. Puppies need food formulated for growth, and large-breed puppies need particular care to avoid growing too fast. Adults need maintenance, and seniors may need adjustments for weight, muscle and health conditions. A dog with a medical condition such as kidney disease, food allergy or pancreatitis may need a prescription or therapeutic diet from a vet.

“Complete and balanced”: what it means

A dog food can supply all of a dog’s nutrients on its own only if it is complete and balanced. In the US, this is shown by a nutritional adequacy statement on the label, based on standards set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). There are two main ways a food can earn the statement ³:

1. Formulated to meet AAFCO nutrient profiles. The recipe is designed, and checked by laboratory analysis, to meet the profile for a life stage.
2. Substantiated by feeding trials. Dogs eat the food under an AAFCO protocol and are monitored. For example, an adult maintenance trial uses healthy adult dogs over 26 weeks ³.

Foods that meet neither standard should say they are for intermittent or supplemental feeding only, which means they should not be a dog’s sole diet ³.

Two points to remember:

• The life stage matters. Look for “growth” or “all life stages” for puppies, and “adult maintenance” for adults. An adult food is not designed to support a growing puppy.
• AAFCO does not test or approve individual foods. It sets standards; states and the FDA regulate ³. A statement on the label shows the manufacturer’s claim, so it is worth asking how the company supports it.

How to read a dog food label

Start with the parts that tell you the most:

1. The nutritional adequacy statement. Is the food complete and balanced, for which life stage, and by which method?
2. The manufacturer. Is the company the maker (“made by”) or does it use a third-party manufacturer (“made for” or “distributed by”) ¹?
3. Calorie content. Calories per cup or per can help you feed the right amount. It may be on the label or available from the company.
4. Guaranteed analysis. This gives minimum protein and fat and maximum fiber and moisture. Because foods have different moisture, comparing wet and dry foods needs care.
5. The ingredient list. Ingredients are listed by weight before cooking, so the picture can be misleading, especially because fresh meat contains a lot of water. The list tells you what is in the food, not how good it is.

What the ingredient list cannot tell you

Owners often judge food by single ingredients, such as “real chicken first”, or by what is left out, such as grains, by-products or preservatives. Veterinary nutrition specialists stress that the ingredient list cannot show how well a food is formulated, how digestible it is, or whether it has been tested; the Tufts veterinary nutrition team, for example, encourages owners to ask the company questions instead ². A well-formulated food made with ingredients you do not like can serve a dog better than a poorly formulated food that sounds appealing.

Marketing words

Words such as “natural”, “premium”, “holistic” and “ancestral” are marketing, not nutritional measures, and they do not tell you whether the food is complete and balanced or well tested. Treat them with skepticism.

Questions to ask the pet food company

WSAVA’s guidance does not rank brands. Instead it suggests owners and vets put questions to manufacturers, and treats an unwillingness to answer as a warning sign ¹. The questions include:

• Do you employ a full-time, qualified nutritionist (a board-certified veterinary nutritionist, or a PhD in animal nutrition), and what are their credentials?
• Who formulates your diets?
• Who makes the food, and do you use a third-party manufacturer?
• Does the food meet the relevant nutrient profile (AAFCO or FEDIAF), and how is that shown?
• What research has the company done on its foods?
• Can you provide the typical nutrient analysis and the calorie content?

Some commentators note that the WSAVA criteria are not strict. For example, a company may only need to supply a full nutrient analysis for one formula in its range. Treat the questions as a starting point, and ask your vet which companies they trust and why.

The grain-free and heart disease question

In 2018 the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) began investigating reports of dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), a serious heart disease, in dogs eating certain diets, mainly those labeled “grain-free”. Here is what its updates said ⁴:

• Between January 2014 and April 2019, the FDA received 524 reports of DCM. Of the cases, about 90% involved diets labeled grain-free and about 93% involved diets with peas or lentils ⁴.
• The FDA described this as a correlation, not proof of cause. In its analysis, grain-free and conventional foods did not differ much in minerals, amino acids, taurine, protein or other nutrients ⁴.
• DCM also has a genetic form, particularly in large and giant breeds, but the reports covered many breeds without a known predisposition ⁴. See our guide to inherited diseases in popular breeds.
• About 10% of the dogs in the reports had eaten diets containing grains ⁴.
• The FDA said it was still investigating, including the role of taurine and how ingredients and processing might matter ⁴.

What this means in practice. Nobody can say today that grain-free food causes DCM, and nobody can say it is safe. If you feed a grain-free or “boutique” diet, or one with legumes as a main ingredient, ask your vet whether it suits your dog, especially if your dog is a breed prone to DCM. Do not change diet suddenly because of a headline; discuss it, and switch gradually if your vet advises it. If your dog shows fainting, coughing, fast breathing or tiring easily, see a vet promptly.

Dogs with a true grain allergy are uncommon, so grain-free is not needed for most dogs. If you suspect a food allergy, work with your vet on a proper elimination diet instead of guessing.

Raw diets

Some owners feed raw meat diets, either commercial or home-prepared. The FDA’s position is that raw pet foods are more likely than other pet foods to carry bacteria such as Salmonella and Listeria monocytogenes, and it advises that the best way to avoid infection is not to feed raw diets ⁵. The risk is not only to the dog. Pets can carry and shed these bacteria without looking ill, and people, especially young children, older adults and anyone with a weakened immune system, can be infected through the food, bowls, surfaces and the dog itself ⁵.

If you feed raw despite this, talk to your vet first, and use strict hygiene: wash hands, bowls and surfaces thoroughly after every meal, store raw food separately from human food, and keep the dog away from vulnerable people. A raw diet also has to be nutritionally complete, which is hard to achieve with home recipes.

Home-cooked diets

Cooking for your dog can work, but only if the diet is complete and balanced. Many recipes online are not, and a diet that lacks something can cause problems over months or years. Veterinary nutritionists can design a diet for your dog, and some services offer recipes checked by specialists. If you cook for your dog, do not rely on a recipe from a blog or social media post without checking it with your vet.

How much to feed

The amount a dog needs depends on its size, age, activity, metabolism and whether it is neutered. The feeding guide on the package is a starting point, not a prescription. Most guides are for average dogs, and many dogs need more or less.

AAHA’s guidelines recommend a nutritional assessment at every veterinary visit, including weight and body condition score ⁶. The practical approach is:

• Start with the package guide or your vet’s advice, using the calorie content.
• Measure food with a scale or a measuring cup, because scoops vary.
• Check your dog’s body condition regularly, using the rib and waist checks in our complete guide to dog health.
• Adjust gradually if your dog gains or loses weight, and ask your vet for help with a weight plan.
• Count treats and chews in the daily total. Many vets suggest keeping treats to a small share of daily calories, often cited as about 10%.

Changing food

Switching foods suddenly can upset a dog’s stomach. A gradual change over several days, mixing increasing amounts of the new food into the old, is the usual advice. If your dog has vomiting, diarrhea or refuses food after a change, call your vet.

Foods to avoid

Some foods that are fine for people are harmful to dogs. These are the best-known:

• Xylitol (a sweetener found in some sugar-free gum, sweets, baked goods, and some peanut butters and toothpastes). It can cause a dangerous drop in blood sugar and liver damage, often within hours, even from a small amount.
• Grapes, raisins, sultanas and currants, which can cause kidney failure. The toxic substance is not known, and the amount that causes harm is unpredictable.
• Chocolate, especially dark and baking chocolate, which contains theobromine and can affect the heart and nervous system.
• Onions, garlic, leeks and chives, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia.
• Macadamia nuts, which can cause weakness and neurological signs.
• Alcohol, caffeine and raw bread dough, among other items.

This is not a complete list. Cooked bones can splinter, fatty scraps can trigger pancreatitis, and corn cobs and fruit stones can cause blockages.

If your dog eats something dangerous, call your vet, an emergency clinic or a pet poison helpline right away, even if your dog looks fine. Have ready the product, the amount, your dog’s weight and the time. Keep the number of your nearest 24-hour clinic where you can find it. In some countries, helplines charge a fee, and local services differ, so find yours before you need it.

Treats, chews and supplements

• Treats should be a small part of the diet. Use small pieces, and consider using part of your dog’s daily kibble as treats.
• Chews, such as bones, antlers and hard plastics, can crack teeth and cause blockages. Ask your vet which are safe for your dog (see our guide’s dental section).
• Supplements: do not add vitamins, minerals or supplements to a complete and balanced diet without checking with your vet. More is not always better, and some combinations can cause harm.
• Water: fresh water should always be available.

Special situations

• Puppies: use a food formulated for growth. For large and giant breeds, ask your vet about a diet suited to their growth.
• Seniors: needs vary. Some seniors lose weight and muscle, others gain. Ask your vet to review the diet at each check.
• Dogs with health conditions: kidney disease, diabetes, pancreatitis, food allergy and many other conditions need veterinary guidance, and often a specific diet. Do not use a home remedy or an over-the-counter “special” food in place of a vet’s plan.

Questions to ask your vet

1. Is my dog’s current food appropriate for its age, size and health?
2. What is my dog’s body condition score, and how much should I feed?
3. Should I be concerned about grain-free or legume-heavy diets for my dog or breed?
4. If I want to feed raw or cook at home, how can I do it safely and completely?
5. Which treats, chews and supplements are safe, and how many?
6. Is there a company or diet you trust, and why?

FAQ

What is the best dog food? There is no single best food. The best choice is a complete and balanced food for your dog’s life stage, from a company that can answer the questions above, which keeps your dog at a healthy weight ^1,6.

Is grain-free food bad for dogs? The FDA found a correlation between diets labeled grain-free and reports of DCM, but has not shown that they cause it ⁴. Ask your vet whether the diet suits your dog.

Is raw food better? There is no strong evidence that raw is healthier, and the FDA warns that it carries a greater risk of Salmonella and Listeria for dogs and people ⁵.

Are by-products bad? The word alone does not say how good a food is. Judge the food by its nutritional adequacy, the company’s answers and how your dog does on it ².

Can dogs eat human food? Some foods are safe in small amounts, but others are toxic. Check before sharing, and keep treats to a small part of the diet.

How do I know if my dog’s food is working? Signs include a healthy weight, good energy, firm stools, a healthy coat and a good appetite. Ask your vet to confirm at checkups.